A pretty curly girl

I'll keep it simple for you. The very first thing you need to know is this:

Your hair needs a little bit more care than straight hair. Why is that? Because of the curl pattern. Thanks to gravity, it's a lot harder for the natural hair oils of your scalp to get distributed formally in the length of the hair. As a result, curly and coily hair tends to be more dry than most others hair types (like straight or slight wavy) because of the shape.

Basically what I'm saying is, the more strong is your curl pattern, the more prone it is to dryness and the more porous it will naturally be. That's why the ideal routine for your curls should always, ALWAYS focus on keeping your cuticle hydrated. 

And, what is a cuticle you might ask? In short, it's the protective layer of our hair strands, and depending on its condition, it will determine our degree of dryness (AKA porosity level). So caring for and pampering the cuticle is our top priority as curly-headed people. Additionally, a healthy cuticle not only gives our hair a more beautiful look but also protects it from damage and breakage, so it's essential to choose the right products to keep it in good condition. I'll teach you how to define your porosity level later on, so keep up with this post.

Why do I need to know all this information? Essentially because, when you understand how your hair works and why it does what it does, then you can use that information to your advantage to help you create a  routine that's suitable for your needs, and only then will you be happy with the results. 

Maybe  once you tried some sort of tips you saw on the internet and they didn't work out. Why? Well, this is because we have different qualities in our hair that don't allow us to achieve the same results. Even though we all have curly heads, that doesn't mean the same thing will work for everyone, and that's okay. What you should do from now on is learn to listen to your hair and know what it really needs so you won't end up wasting your time, energy and most importantly, your MONEY. But if you ask me, there's no better investment than yourself. So let's learn how to make it the right way.

In order to keep everything organized, we'll divide the routine into steps, these steps are: 

1. Cleansing 
2. Conditioning  
3. Styling 
Now keep in mind that this is just the most basic structure of a haircare routine. As you keep learning more and more you can add more steps and more products according to your needs and preferences like a serum or a masc.

1. Cleansing: Choosing the Right Shampoo

You’ve probably heard this a million times: “If you have curly hair, stay away from sulfates!” And while there’s some truth to that, it’s not the whole story. The reality is that sulfates aren’t the enemy—they just need to be used the right way.

What Are Sulfates, and Why Do They Matter?

Sulfates are the cleansing agents in most shampoos (and other cleaning products). Their job is to break down dirt, oil, and product buildup. The problem? They don’t just remove the bad stuff; they can also strip away your scalp’s natural oils, leaving your hair dry and frizzy. And since curly hair is already prone to dryness, this can make things worse.

But here’s the thing: You DO need to cleanse your scalp properly. If you avoid sulfates completely, you might end up with product buildup, clogged follicles, and even scalp issues like itchiness or excessive shedding. The trick is choosing the right type of sulfate for your scalp type. Don't know what type of scalp you have? Let me help you.

Scalp types

Scalp types are determined by the amount of sebum produced and how hydrated the skin in that area is. There are four main scalp types, each with its own characteristics and care needs:

Oily: This scalp type causes hair to look unkempt, limp, and lifeless. Hair with this scalp type has little volume, as oil weighs it down and traps it. The hair is thin and excessively shiny. It lacks natural movement. It has enlarged pores, looks dirty, and causes breakouts.



Dry: This scalp type is rough and produces lifeless, dull, and very dull hair. This sensitive scalp presents flakes and redness due to a lack of proper hydration. This makes the hair prone to breakage. Hair on a dry scalp lacks shine. However, it also has a lot of volume, split ends, and is very thick.


Mix: This scalp type presents a combination of oily and dry areas. This results in hair that is oily at the roots but extremely dry at the ends. This type of hair looks unkempt, as it appears dirty on the scalp and the ends appear split.


Normal: Characterized by a healthy, hydrated, shiny, and vibrant appearance. This is because the sebaceous glands produce the right amount of oil. Keeping your scalp hydrated and protected is achieved through a healthy lifestyle, a good diet, and the use of appropriate products. 

Once you're done defining your scalp type, you're ready to choose the best shampoo according to your needs.

Sulfate Types

Not all sulfates are created equal. Some are super harsh, while others are much gentler. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Harsh Sulfates Are the best for oily scalps, but not recommended for regular use.

    • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) – Strongest cleanser, but very drying. Use sparingly.
    • Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate – Similar to SLS but slightly milder.

  • Gentler Sulfates Better for combination and dry scalps.

    • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) – A milder version of SLS, cleans without stripping as much.
    • Ammonium Laureth Sulfate – Similar to SLES, works for mild cleansing.

  • Sulfate-Free Cleansers Best for dry and sensitive scalps

    • Cocamidopropyl Betaine – Super gentle, often found in sulfate-free shampoos.
    • Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate – A mild cleanser derived from coconut, great for dry scalps.

Which Shampoo Should You Use?

  • Oily scalp → A shampoo with a mild sulfate like SLES, but don’t overdo it. You don’t want to strip your scalp so much that it produces even more oil to compensate.
  • Dry scalp → Go for sulfate-free shampoos or those with mild surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine. They clean without causing extra dryness.
  • Combination scalp → A balance between the two. You might need a mild sulfate shampoo once a week and a sulfate-free cleanser in between.
  • Normal scalp → Lucky you! You can get away with a mild sulfate shampoo every now and then while using sulfate-free options regularly.

 Now that you know how to choose your shampoo, let's move on into the next step.

2. Conditioning: What Ingredients to Look For

Conditioner is designed to moisturize, soften, and improve hair's manageability after shampooing. It helps prevent frizz and split ends, making it a staple in our hair routine. Just keep in mind that when choosing the right conditioner, you should focus on your hair's porosity, not your scalp type. This is because conditioner is applied to the length of the hair, not the scalp. Conditioner isn't designed to cleanse your hair, but to moisturize it after shampooing. Remember this.

You've probably heard of "co-washing", which means washing your hair with conditioner. It's a fairly popular term among those with curly hair and is used to preserve the hair's natural oils. The problem is that conditioner doesn't contain cleansing agents in its formula to remove dirt from the hair. In other words, conditioner isn't designed to wash your hair, but to moisturize it after shampooing. I strongly recommend avoiding this type of practice, especially if you have an oily scalp, as you'd be doing exactly the same thing as washing a greasy dish without soap. Your hair will be dirty, and excess sebum will accumulate, causing hair loss. There's no worse feeling than standing in the shower and watching your hair fall out.

So, if you want to take care of your curly hair and keep it in good condition, choose your conditioner based on its porosity level. What is porosity? You might ask. Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, as well as other external substances. The degree of hair porosity is determined by the condition of the cuticle scales. 

Based on this, we can distinguish three types of porosity:

High porosity

This is mainly characterized by a lack of hydration. This is due to its open cuticle, which allows it to absorb moisture easily, but also to lose it just as quickly. This makes hair drier, tangled, and prone to frizz. Coloring, heat treatments, and bleaching alter the natural state of the cuticle, causing damage that opens it up. It's worth noting that some people naturally have high porosity due to genetic factors, as is the case with curly hair.

Medium Porosity

This is the ideal porosity type because it has a flexible cuticle, which allows moisture to penetrate the hair more easily and remain within the hair fiber. This makes medium porosity hair the easiest to care for and doesn't require significant maintenance, as the cuticle is perfectly open to maintain proper hydration.

Low Porosity

It's very difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair because the cuticle is very closed. Therefore, this type of hair takes longer to get wet and is more prone to dirt buildup. However, this type of hair retains moisture longer when hydrated.

Best Conditioner Ingredients for Each Porosity Type

  • High porosity hair Needs moisture + protein to strengthen

    • Look for: Hydrolyzed proteins (keratin, wheat protein, silk protein), butters (shea, mango), and oils (avocado, castor).
    • Avoid: Super light conditioners that don’t provide enough hydration.

  • Medium porosity hair Maintains a balance of moisture and protein

    • Look for: A mix of humectants and proteins (honey, aloe vera, coconut oil, argan oil).
    • Avoid: Too much protein, as it can make your hair feel stiff.

  • Low porosity hair Needs lightweight moisture to penetrate the cuticle

    • Look for: Humectants (glycerin, aloe vera, honey) and lightweight oils (jojoba, grapeseed, argan).
    • Avoid: Heavy butters and proteins that can build up on the hair.

With this info, you should be able to pick the right shampoo and conditioner for your unique hair. Now, let’s move on to the fun part—styling!

3. Styling: Defining your curl pattern

Now that we’ve covered cleansing and conditioning, let’s talk about styling—arguably the most fun (and sometimes frustrating) part of the curly hair routine. Finding the right styling products and techniques will make all the difference in how your curls look and feel throughout the day.

First things first: hydration is key. After conditioning, your hair is ready to absorb moisture, so this is the best time to lock it in. The Leave-In Conditioner is your best friend here. It helps keep your curls soft, manageable, and frizz-free. If your hair tends to get weighed down easily, go for a lightweight formula. If it’s on the drier side, a richer leave-in will do the trick.

Next up, defining your curls. This is where gels, mousses, or creams come into play.

  • Creams work best for thicker, high-porosity hair since they provide moisture and definition without making the curls stiff.
  • Mousses are a great option if you want volume and definition without too much weight.
  • Gels offer the most hold and help maintain definition for longer, but be sure to scrunch out the crunch (SOTC) once your hair is dry to get soft, bouncy curls.

When applying your styling products, always do it on damp or wet hair for better absorption. A great technique to try is the "rake and scrunch"—rake the product through your hair with your fingers, then scrunch upwards to encourage curl formation. You can also experiment with plopping (wrapping your hair in a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel) to help your curls set without frizz.

Finally, how you dry your curls makes a difference. Air-drying is the most gentle method, but if you’re short on time, using a diffuser on low heat and speed will help keep your curl pattern intact while adding volume. Whatever you do, avoid touching your curls too much while they dry—it can cause frizz and disrupt the curl formation.

Here are some additional tips for keeping that bouncy healthy look on your curls:

  • Use satin pillowcases: Swap your pillowcase for a satin or silk one when you go to sleep, or if you can't get one, get a satin bonnet to wear on your head. These materials reduce friction, preventing hair breakage and helping to maintain the shape of your curls while you sleep.

  • Detangle carefully: Always detangle your hair when it's damp, using a special brush for curly hair, a wide-tooth comb, or simply your fingers. This will prevent breakage and frizz, and maintain the natural shape of your curls.

  • Protect your hair from the sun and wind: To prevent your hair from drying out or tangling, wear a hat or scarf.

  • Take care of your diet: It's useless to buy a million hair products if you don't have a balanced diet that keeps your curls healthy. Remember, hair is made of protein. A diet rich in vitamins and minerals will help strengthen your curls and keep them healthy.

  • Avoid drying products: Strong-hold gels containing alcohol and sprays can make curls hard and brittle, increasing the risk of breakage.

By now, you should have a solid understanding of how to choose the right shampoo and conditioner for your hair type, and how to style your curls effectively. The most important thing is to listen to your hair—observe how it reacts to different products and techniques, and adjust accordingly. Curly hair is unique, and what works for someone else may not work for you. But once you figure out the right routine, you’ll fall in love with your curls all over again.

Now go rock those curls with confidence!